Danger of a via Ferrata fall!

A via Ferrata fall can be more dangerous than a fall in sport climbing. This is mainly due to the fall factor, cushioning, and belay technique.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1. Very high fall factor

In via ferrata, you usually climb above the last anchor point of the steel cable.

If you fall:

  • you first fall down to the previous anchor point,
  • then the via ferrata set becomes taut.

This can cause the fall factor to be almost 2.

The fall factor is a term from Fall Factor and means: fall factor = fall distance / length of the system

In via ferrata:

  • short arms of the set
  • relatively long fall distance

Therefore, large forces. For comparison: in sport climbing, the fall factor is usually lower than 1.

2. No dynamic rope

In sport climbing, the energy of a fall is absorbed by a dynamic climbing rope, such as a Dynamic Climbing Rope.

That rope:

  • sometimes stretches 30–40%
  • gradually absorbs the fall.

On a via ferrata:

  • there is no long dynamic rope
  • only a short energy absorber in the set.

The energy absorbency is therefore much more limited.

3. Hard structures around

On a via ferrata, you are close to:

  • rock
  • iron steps
  • ladders
  • cable anchors

​During a fall, you can therefore hit the wall or metal parts.

4. Possible fall distance

For example, if the anchor points are 3–5 meters apart:

  • you climb above the anchor
  • you fall to the previous anchor
  • plus the length of the set

The total fall can be 5–8 meters before the energy absorber fully activates.

5. That's why three things are crucial on a via ferrata:

  • a modern set according to EN 958
  • always two carabiners on the cable
  • never climb above an anchor point without being secured.

CanyonZone Knowledge base Via Ferrata / KlettersteigGo Back.

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